Ghorepani Poonhill Trek: 5 Days In the Heart of Annapurna

Known for its towering peaks, diverse natural landscapes and cultural and spiritual richness, Nepal’s allure is unmistakable. Among its many jewels, the Ghorepani Poonhill trek stands out as one of the top treks. Our five-day adventure brought us through local villages, verdant hills, and rhododendron forests with jaw-dropping mountain vistas at every turn. Join us on our adventure as we go from Nayapul to Ulleri, Ghorepani to Poonhill, Ghandruk, and then finally back to Pokhara, a city also known as Switzerland of the Himalayas

Day 1: Nayapul – Ulleri

We could feel the excitement building in the jeep as we neared Nayapul for the start of the trek. After a year of planning and preparations, we were finally here.

After a brief permit check with the Annapurna Conservation Area desk and a quick chai, we were ready to start and discover Annapurna’s majestic beauty for the next five days.

The trek to Ulleri was a teaser for what was to come – tiny villages, waterfalls, green valleys and terraced fields everywhere. We started off with a gradual ascent on a dirt road next to other trekkers and jeeps. Easy peasy. After lunch, the speed and pace changed, with the climb up a bit steeper including walking up the infamous, I mean, iconic stone steps to Ulleri - over 3000 of them!

After the glute enhancing climb up, the welcome site of Ulleri appeared in the distance. Sitting at an elevation of approximately 2,070 meters, Ulleri is a small village with plenty of traditional tea houses and breathtaking views.

Preview of the stunning landscape awaiting us.

Day 2: Ulleri - Ghorepani

After a beautiful sunrise and breakfast in Ulleri, we were ready to start the ascent to Ghorepani. More steps and climbing were in store but all were quickly forgotten when we entered the dense rhododendron forest. We were lost in quiet contemplation for several hours, listening to the occasional bird chirp and surrounded by big, beautiful trees, flowers and medicinal plants. Occasional glimpses of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri mountain ranges teased us as we climbed higher, motivating us to keep moving.

After a long day, we saw our teahouse in Ghorepani. The village at 2,850 meters, offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and cultural richness with street vendors selling their wares along the cobblestone streets. We knew we had a big day ahead of us tomorrow so, after exploring the village for a bit, we settled down early.

Getting closer to Poonhill.

Day 3: Ghorepani – Poonhill – Tadapani

Day 3 of the trip was the highlight, with the spectacular Poonhill sunrise. Waking up at 4am in the morning, we quickly donned warm clothes and headlamps. We fell behind other bleary-eyed passengers in a single-file to climb yet another set of stone steps to reach the summit. We felt every minute of the 45-minute climb up to the summit at 3,210 meters. We arrived early enough to enjoy a nice cup of hot chai and settle into a good viewing spot to await the much-anticipated sunrise.

Slowly, the first ray of light illuminated a peak. Then, one by one the peaks were illuminated, as if on cue. Like a curtain was slowly peeling back to unveil nature’s beauty while keeping us in suspense and awe. Very soon, the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges were covered in vivid hues of red and orange. At that moment, it was clear why Ghorepani Poonhill is considered one of the most beautiful treks of Nepal.

We stayed well long after the sunrise, after the crowds disappeared, to enjoy the majestic views to ourselves. When we had our fill and with the vista firmly imprinted in our memories, we descended back to Ghorepani to retrieve our bags and continue to Tadapani.

The day was long but the ever-changing landscape kept us captivated. We lost track of time, surrendering to the beauty and quiet around us.

The much-awaited sunrise at Poonhill.

Day 4: Tadapani – Ghandruk

Leaving Tadapani behind, we head towards the traditional Gurung village of Ghandruk. This was a short day. After a couple of hours, we reached the settlement. Terraced fields, decorated goats (we were there around the time of the Dashain festival) and the mountains dotted the landscape. Given that we arrived early in the morning, we had plenty of time to get lost in the numerous alleys and interact with the locals. Right away, we noticed that the streets were very clean and the greenery was spectacular. We soon discovered that Ghandruk was also home to the Annapurna Conservation Project which is why this town seemed a bit different than the rest, as extra care was taken to preserve the place.

Beautiful mountain vistas at every turn.

Day 5: Back to Pokhara

Our last day was met with bittersweet feelings. We were tired but feeling very alive and full in our hearts. We relished the sun and absorbed the final views of the landscape during our descent. When we took our final step to the small town of Kilu, at 1390 meters, we could not believe it. In just five short days, we experienced some of the best landscapes in Nepal, gotten a taste of the mountain villages and culture and felt ourselves grow physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually. This experience is something that we will carry forward and share with others so they too can experience. As our new Nepali friends would say, “jamjam” or let’s go!

We did it!